“Be still and don’t shout”, our boatman, said as we started our cruise by the Bojo River in Aloguinsan, a small town 2 hours drive away from Cebu City. “There is a diwata guarding the river.”
I sat quietly at the front of the boat. With view unimpended, I could see the green water beyond me. Lining up on both sides of the river were thick mangrove forests that appeared to separate us from the outside world. It felt like being in a secret world taking a secret ride.
I sat quietly at the front of the boat. With view unimpended, I could see the green water beyond me. Lining up on both sides of the river were thick mangrove forests that appeared to separate us from the outside world. It felt like being in a secret world taking a secret ride.
After a while, prodded by my curious colleagues, Manong the boatman continued his talk.
Her name is Maria'ng Tang-an (wise Maria), Manong said. She is very beautiful. And her long, straight hair matches the soft, white gown she is known to wear every time they see her.
She shows herself to people sometimes, but only to a lucky few. Even Manong who travels by the river every day hasn’t seen her.
Her name is Maria'ng Tang-an (wise Maria), Manong said. She is very beautiful. And her long, straight hair matches the soft, white gown she is known to wear every time they see her.
She shows herself to people sometimes, but only to a lucky few. Even Manong who travels by the river every day hasn’t seen her.
Maria has been guarding the area for a long time now, according to Manong. She is known to have protected the caves from Spanish treasure hunters in the old days. During the Japanese invasion, she sheltered many locals, even people from faraway villages who came to seek cover underneath the mangrove trees.
Maria had a kind heart. And for a long time people took comfort in her generosity. People turned to her for help whenever they have problems. One who was in trouble only needed to knock at the door of one of those caves beside the river. She never abandoned anyone. People came to her if they needed things they didn’t already have, such as giant pots, gowns for weddings, and others. Her only condition was that once the objects were to be returned, they should be handed in good condition.
But one day, one careless local returned a precious wedding gown half burnt. This angered Maria so bad she shut the doors of her cave, never to entertain seekers again forever.
Maria had a kind heart. And for a long time people took comfort in her generosity. People turned to her for help whenever they have problems. One who was in trouble only needed to knock at the door of one of those caves beside the river. She never abandoned anyone. People came to her if they needed things they didn’t already have, such as giant pots, gowns for weddings, and others. Her only condition was that once the objects were to be returned, they should be handed in good condition.
But one day, one careless local returned a precious wedding gown half burnt. This angered Maria so bad she shut the doors of her cave, never to entertain seekers again forever.
Manong talked in a calm voice, pointing at a tiny cave on the upper left side of the river.
As we paddled through the river quietly, I felt calm. There were birds chirping. And there were dogs on the shallow side swimming with kids. I could almost picture Maria smiling at the sight.
At the mouth of the river where the sky and the sea meet, one can see Negros Island not very far away looking pale blue, like the backdrop of a watercolor painting. When the sun is high, the color of the sky is the same as that of the sea. It is no longer possible to tell one from the other.
As we paddled through the river quietly, I felt calm. There were birds chirping. And there were dogs on the shallow side swimming with kids. I could almost picture Maria smiling at the sight.
At the mouth of the river where the sky and the sea meet, one can see Negros Island not very far away looking pale blue, like the backdrop of a watercolor painting. When the sun is high, the color of the sky is the same as that of the sea. It is no longer possible to tell one from the other.
One can stop by and snorkel or swim by the mouth of the river. Both sea and river are made of crystal clear water. Looking down below one can make out the details of all treasures underneath: tiny fishes, clear sand, white corals. It is haven for those who love water.
One has to cruise the river slowly to see the walls of the caves beside the it. One of those caves, if one watches carefully, is the door to Maria’s home. They call it Maria’s Cathedral door.
The other caves used to be the home of monkeys of different varieties. They were Maria’s army. They ruled the area for a long time. But one day a treasure hunter came and blasted off the walls of some of the caves in his quest for treasures. Most of the monkeys left after that, but a few devoted ones remained to look after what remained of their former home.
One has to cruise the river slowly to see the walls of the caves beside the it. One of those caves, if one watches carefully, is the door to Maria’s home. They call it Maria’s Cathedral door.
The other caves used to be the home of monkeys of different varieties. They were Maria’s army. They ruled the area for a long time. But one day a treasure hunter came and blasted off the walls of some of the caves in his quest for treasures. Most of the monkeys left after that, but a few devoted ones remained to look after what remained of their former home.
I can understand why Maria guards this place with the care of an overprotective mother. It is very charming and idyllic. A kind of hideway for those escaping from the world.
The river is just 1.4 kilometers in length. One can cruise in 30 minutes to 1 hour with a banca or walk through a 400-meter-long bamboo boardwalk connected to a trail. The first thing we asked was if there are crocodiles in the area. Manong assured us there is none. The bancas are safe because they are designed with outriggers or “katig”.
The river is just 1.4 kilometers in length. One can cruise in 30 minutes to 1 hour with a banca or walk through a 400-meter-long bamboo boardwalk connected to a trail. The first thing we asked was if there are crocodiles in the area. Manong assured us there is none. The bancas are safe because they are designed with outriggers or “katig”.
Maria’s Bojo River is a natural harbor, Manong said. During typhoons when the sea is as turbulent as someone in bad mood, the river remains peaceful. It’s a paradise on its own, its peace undisturbed by what is going on around it.
All boatmen running the cruises at Bojo River went through 4 months of ecology and preservation training by a group of biologists sent by the government. That’s why Manong who guided us knows the scientific names of all 22 species of mangroves around the area. He explained that the tiny bubbles that we saw floating around the river were from the mangroves themselves--a proof, that they too, like us, breathe. He boasts of the place and his childhood experiences with it. He said he’s been passing by the river every day since he was a kid, going back and forth to catch fishes or accompany his father. Near the area there are over 100 springs that regularly bring fresh water to the river.
In a way, Manong and boatmen like him, as well as other villagers who form the Bojo Aloguinsan Ecotourism Association, the association that manages the multi-awarded tourist area, have become Maria’s army. They look after the place the way Maria does--with care, with pride, and with the protectiveness of a devoted mother.
When they talk about the place, you do not hear the usual verbose, memorized lines of a tour guide. You hear someone showing off his own backyard.
Here is where I spent my childhood playing with other kids, especially during summers. Here is where we’d watch aninipots (fireflies) at night. Here is how we’d skip classes in the daytime to join our fathers as they catch fishes.
I watched Manong as he also lamented at how, in the old times, sending children to college was not yet a necessity. How the river and the sea together used to have more than enough to provide for everyone. And how those who wanted things that were not provided, such as fresh produce, crops, chickens, vegetables, and others, could always barter their fishes with the farmers who regularly trade or visit the area.
All boatmen running the cruises at Bojo River went through 4 months of ecology and preservation training by a group of biologists sent by the government. That’s why Manong who guided us knows the scientific names of all 22 species of mangroves around the area. He explained that the tiny bubbles that we saw floating around the river were from the mangroves themselves--a proof, that they too, like us, breathe. He boasts of the place and his childhood experiences with it. He said he’s been passing by the river every day since he was a kid, going back and forth to catch fishes or accompany his father. Near the area there are over 100 springs that regularly bring fresh water to the river.
In a way, Manong and boatmen like him, as well as other villagers who form the Bojo Aloguinsan Ecotourism Association, the association that manages the multi-awarded tourist area, have become Maria’s army. They look after the place the way Maria does--with care, with pride, and with the protectiveness of a devoted mother.
When they talk about the place, you do not hear the usual verbose, memorized lines of a tour guide. You hear someone showing off his own backyard.
Here is where I spent my childhood playing with other kids, especially during summers. Here is where we’d watch aninipots (fireflies) at night. Here is how we’d skip classes in the daytime to join our fathers as they catch fishes.
I watched Manong as he also lamented at how, in the old times, sending children to college was not yet a necessity. How the river and the sea together used to have more than enough to provide for everyone. And how those who wanted things that were not provided, such as fresh produce, crops, chickens, vegetables, and others, could always barter their fishes with the farmers who regularly trade or visit the area.
One day, Manong said, as his father was paddling on his way to sea, he saw a giant ship coming towards the river. What was it doing in such a shallow area? Scared, he bolted fast and went home, telling his wife and children about what happened. There are tales like this which scare fishermen and visitors. Which also add to the river’s mystery.
Going home, I was wondering - will it help if we promote the place heavily to tourists? In a way it will bring more income to the villagers. But to what extent? Will tourists come in droves one day like they do in Boracay, to threaten the peace and destroy the balance? And if that happens, what can Maria and her army do?
Going home, I was wondering - will it help if we promote the place heavily to tourists? In a way it will bring more income to the villagers. But to what extent? Will tourists come in droves one day like they do in Boracay, to threaten the peace and destroy the balance? And if that happens, what can Maria and her army do?
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